Ubud, Bali

Our last visit seemed to coincide with some serious changes as the tourist accommodation seems to be encroaching (unpleasantly) on the rice fields to the north and the market has been pulled down. Plus an entirely unnecessary Starbucks appeared on the main road a couple of years ago.

The pavements are better than before, but I hope that the clear improvement in tourism doesn’t lead to a spoiling Kuta-ifiction. The tragic standard lament of the tourist.

Eat

Cafe Lotus

Jl. Raya Ubud • thecafelotusubud.com

Set against a temple, with a beautiful lily pond. You’ll see it next to Starbucks on the main road through Ubud.

There’s often a traditional dance show on a weekend evening you’ll want to sit on the traditional low seating for the best view. The local food is good and the place is always busy.

They shouldn’t have stopped selling Storm beer (dead) though.

Tutmak

Jl. Dewi Suita • tutmak.com

Great coffee and a surprisingly excellent burrito. Milkshakes good too. Off the main strip but sit and watch the world go by.

Mozaic

Jl. Raya Sanggingan • mozaicbali.com

Just some of the best food anywhere in Asia. Amazing tasting menu accompanied bay wine for every course. You’ll need to book.

Stay

Lady Bamboo

Jl. Kajeng • ladybamboo.de

We always stay at Lady Bamboo, it’s owned by a friendly German/Balinese couple. Very central, few rooms and tucked away from the madness on the edge of a river.

Nice pool, good food and they’ve even got a little spa now.